Eulji Tongdak

About

Quirky retro hof near Dongdaemun run by an eccentric owner, serving thin-crusted fried chicken alongside spicy homemade pickled radish.

Tucked into a quiet corner near Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station, Eulji Tongdak is a retro hof operated on pure whimsy. The owner lives directly upstairs in the building she owns, frequently descending to unlock the door only after a customer calls ahead. Inside, the vibe oscillates between disorganized chaos and communal warmth: blaring trot music fills the room, shelves showcase surprising bottles of Royal Salute and Dassai, and the charismatic matriarch snaps selfies with guests, pours drinks, or hands her frying tongs to customers mid-batch. The star of the menu is the fried chicken (후라이드치킨), dropped straight into the vat by the entryway with a sizzle reminiscent of pouring rain. Lean, thin-skinned, and fried to a darker, old-school crisp, the bird carries a sharp, savory brine that cuts through late-night fatigue. It arrives beside house-made pickled radish studded with spicy cheongyang peppers, an assertive counterpoint to cold draft beer served in frosty glasses. For those craving something earthier, the electric herbal roast chicken (전기한방치킨)—sourced directly from an outside purveyor and delivered in a plastic bag before being swiftly carved tableside—comes stuffed with moist meat and sticky black glutinous rice. Rounding out the tavern spread is golbaengi-muchim, tossing chewy sea snails and dried pollack with cucumber, finished with an extra swirl of thin somyeon noodles. Prices hover higher than standard neighborhood hof fare, and the idiosyncratic billing warrants keeping a mental tally before paying. Yet the hospitality feels singularly intimate, running like an eccentric, late-night open house fueled by bowls of puffed corn and impulsive toasts. Always call ahead before walking down Euljiro 7-ga to confirm the owner is downstairs and ready to fire up the oil.