Lee Byeong-tae Hamheung Naengmyeon

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Authentic Hamheung cold noodles headed by a former 50-year head chef of Ojang-dong Hamheung Naengmyeon, known for seasoned skate noodles and juicy dumplings.

A short stroll from Yeokchon Station in Eunpyeong District, Lee Byung-tae Hamhung Naengmyeon carries the culinary weight of its namesake chef, who spent fifty years directing the kitchen at Seoul’s legendary Ojang-dong Hamhung Naengmyeon. Inside, the dining room is straightforward and compact, seating around ten tables decorated with charming rows of miniatures. It regularly fills with local families and hikers descending from nearby Bukhansan seeking relief from the heat. The meal opens with an aluminum kettle of piping-hot *on-yuksu* (beef broth). Deep, savory, and restorative, the broth sets expectations before the noodles arrive. The menu covers the essential bases, but the standout order is the *hoe-naengmyeon* (spicy cold noodles topped with raw fish). The chewy, seasoned skate sits atop dense, springy noodles that yield cleanly with each bite. Coated in a thick, sweet, and gently building chili sauce, the mixture delivers rich umami without overwhelming fiery heat. For purists or those needing balance, the *mul-naengmyeon* offers a striking alternative. Unlike standard, assertively vinegary broths, the cold soup here bridges the gap between Hamhung and Pyongyang traditions—strikingly subtle, clean, and mildly seasoned, topped simply with slices of boiled beef. To round out the table, order the steamed *mandu*. Stuffed tight in thin skins, the dumplings burst with rich, savory pork juice, making them the natural counterweight to the sweet-and-spicy skate noodles. Service runs on a brisk, direct rhythm that can turn blunt when the small room is at capacity, and requests for extra cold broth for dry noodles may be met with sharp efficiency. Still, for hikers nursing spent legs or cold-noodle devotees hunting half a century of Ojang-dong technique, the bowl in front of you speaks for itself.