Son Wookjeong Him Bulkkeun Hwangso Gopchang

About

Cozy basement spot near Sinnonhyeon Station serving fresh beef tripe and unique rice-cake-stuffed gopchang with spicy fishcake soup.

Tucked into the basement arcade of a nondescript officetel building off Seoun-ro, near Sinnonhyeon Station, Son Wuk-jeong Himbulkkun Hwangso Gopchang operates with idiosyncratic precision. The subterranean dining room is tight, holding just about seven round metal tables squeezed together around tabletop portable burners. Water, drinks, and aprons are strictly self-serve, and the owner sets clear, no-nonsense house rules: leave the burner dial alone, and clear your starter pan the exact second you are instructed to do so. Meals begin over a pot of kimchi-flecked fish cake soup simmering on the portable stove. Thin at first, the broth boils down into a sharp, spicy, kimchi-udon-like brew that holds the table over while the offal is prepped. When the cast-iron platter lands, the owner delivers a practiced, rapid-fire briefing on what to eat and when. The variety meats arrive impeccably fresh, devoid of bitterness or gaminess. The signature flourish is the restaurant's fusion approach to beef small intestines: lengths of *gopchang* are stuffed with chewy cylinder rice cakes (*tteok*), a clever trick that traps the rich inner marrow (*gop*) so it stays tender and bursting with savory juices. Alongside the stuffed intestines sit cuts of *makchang* (abomasum), sliced potatoes, seasoned chives, and rice cakes dusted with cheese powder. Thinly sliced *yeomtong* (heart) cooks quickly and goes straight into a dish of toasted sesame oil and salt; the rich, fatty *daechang* (large intestines) is later snipped open and roasted flat by the owner to render off excess oil until crisp and blistered. Three dipping sauces anchor the spread: grated cheese, nutty sesame oil, and a slightly sweet soy dip packed with sliced Cheongyang chilis. The finish is the *kimchi cheolpan bokkeumbap*. No matter how many portions of fried rice you order for the table, the kitchen tops the skillet with a sunny-side-up fried egg for every single diner seated.